Assembling

Scalextric LC

I have stripped some Scalextric C7014/15 pit LC‘s for LED PCB and solenoids. The solenoids and the plastic connection pin, have to be adjusted, so that the flipper will move freely. I test the movement with a PSU connected directly to the solenoids.

Scalextric C7014/15 is stripped for electronic and solenoids.Scalextric C7014/15 is stripped for electronic and solenoids.
Solenoids in place.Solenoids in place.
Wire externsion.Wire externsion.
Insulated with tape.Insulated with tape.
LED PCB and solenoids ready for soldering to the relay PCB.LED PCB and solenoids ready for soldering to the relay PCB.
Lay-out for the relay PCB between the Scalextric LED PCB and the flipper solenoids.Lay-out for the relay PCB between the Scalextric LED PCB and the flipper solenoids.
Relay PCB between Scalextric LC PCB and solenoids to make the flipper “alive”.Relay PCB between Scalextric LC PCB and solenoids to make the flipper “alive”.
All electronic are covered.All electronic are covered.

Clip 1: Testing built-in Scalextric LC with my ugly Porsche Boxster:)

There are 3 wires from the Scalextric LC PCB to the solenoids:
WHITE = Default position (without pressing the LC button)
RED = Lane change position (pressing the LC button)
BLACK = Common

I have connected the 3 wires from the Scalextric LED PCB to the two solenoids, that output is also connected to a small relay PCB. The relay will change position with the solenoids. The contact set on the relay, is connected to track power (NC/NO) and the LC flipper (C) and thereby secure that the flipper, always have the right potential. I haven’t used any electronic protection diodes on this relay PCB, because they already are located on the Scalextric PCB, due to the two solenoids.

Anti colliction LC

Under the blue tape are 2 out of 4 SOS’ glued-in. All ready for some wires.Under the blue tape are 2 out of 4 SOS’ glued-in. All ready for some wires.
All wires connected waiting to be covered up.All wires connected waiting to be covered up.
Where the PCB is located on a different sektion than the SOS’s, I connect them with 3 or 4-pin connector.Where the PCB is located on a different sektion than the SOS’s, I connect them with 3 or 4-pin connector.

Clip 2: The car just behind the leading car, is guided to outer lane with possibility for overtaking.

Clip 3: The car attacking from inner lane, force the car in outer lane away from the default racing line and thereby avoids a collision.

Passive out flipper

To be sure that the passive out flippers, at all time, has the right potential, I have connected two SOS‘, one in each lane before the flipper, to a small PCB. The contact set on the relay is connected to track power and the flipper it selves.

I drill a 2,5 mm hole in the flipper and cut a M3 tread.I drill a 2,5 mm hole in the flipper and cut a M3 tread.
I provide it with 3M 2mm double sided tapeI provide it with 3M 2mm double sided tape
Flipper with 3M tape.Flipper with 3M tape.
Mark for drilling.Mark for drilling.
The 3 mm hole, screw and wire to the PCB.The 3 mm hole, screw and wire to the PCB.
The flipper in place secured with 3M tape and tightened with a M3 screw.The flipper in place secured with 3M tape and tightened with a M3 screw.
Ready for SOS’ and PCB.Ready for SOS’ and PCB.
I place a 3 mm plactic strip in the slot and glue the SOS to the MDF.I place a 3 mm plactic strip in the slot and glue the SOS to the MDF.
Everything in place…Everything in place…
…and protected.…and protected.
285 mm long out flipper. Thank God it got the right potential.285 mm long out flipper. Thank God it got the right potential.

Clip 4: The potential of the flipper i always right.

Scalextric Power Base

I had to extend the wires between the PB and the two track PCB‘s due to the width of my track. The PB is connected to my Laptop with a RikoRocket cable.

Space for the Scalextric PB PCB.Space for the Scalextric PB PCB.
PB LED PCB wire color.PB LED PCB wire color.
PB SOS PCB wire color.PB SOS PCB wire color.
LED and SOS Scalextric PB PCB’s in place.LED and SOS Scalextric PB PCB’s in place.
Covered up.Covered up.
Last soldering.Last soldering.
LED in sight.LED in sight.
Viola!Viola!
1, 2 testing…1, 2 testing…

Smart Sensor

The speed will be automatically reduced when entering the pit. There is a LED at the pit entry and one at the exit connected to the PC’s USB through a Arduino Board.

Space for the small LED PCB is routed and secured with glue.Space for the small LED PCB is routed and secured with glue.
The pit entry and exit are in two different sektions and I therefore have to cut the wires and mount 3,5 mm mono jacks.The pit entry and exit are in two different sektions and I therefore have to cut the wires and mount 3,5 mm mono jacks.
Pit exit LED is in sight through the slot.Pit exit LED is in sight through the slot.